Ingredients
I get a lot of questions when I use butter in recipes. One of
my friends wrote me with the claim that I use more butter since I have
moved to New Orleans (not so). Others write in and want to know
if it can really be used in healthy recipes. The answer is, of course! Fresh
ingredients always have a place in great food. I use butter sparingly
as a flavor enhancer and I do purchase the highest quality butter.
Butter is so wonderful. It is such a simple thing – fresh
cream is churned, breaking up the fat globules that are normally suspended
in water until the fat binds together trapping the water.
In the U.S. butter must contain at least 80% butter fat with the remainder
made up of water and milk solids. The quality of butter is rated
by the USDA based on flavor, aroma, quality of cream, texture and then
given a “Grade Shield” – either AA, A or B. Quality
butters start with the best cream and you should look for only Grade AA
butter.
It used to be that there were only a few choices. Familiar butter
like the venerable Land o’ Lakes is certainly very good quality
and is very consistent. There are, however, now a wide variety for
you to choose from. In a lot of specialty markets (and even your
grocery store) local dairies have carved out a niche for themselves supplying
high quality butters. These are European style butters and have a
higher percentage of butterfat -- at least 82% but they can be as high
as 86% - 88%. This, combined with specialty cultures and churning
methods, produces a smooth creamy, rich product.
This growth has been in response to a number of factors but the success
of European quality butter such as Plugra a decade ago showed American
dairies the way to the market. While I have found the flavor of
European butters to be excellent in sauces, using them is not as critical
in such recipes while using higher fat butters is more important in baking. The
higher butterfat content makes for the best quality baked goods.
All of the recipes on the Dr. Gourmet website call for unsalted
butter (if not, it’s a typo -- use unsalted butter). The amount
of sodium in salted butter is minimal (a tablespoon has all of 115 mg
of sodium). There is, however, a variation in the amount of salt
added by different dairies, so using unsalted butter lends reliability
to your recipes. This is especially true in baking where it is important
to control the amount of salt, since subtle changes
in ingredients can make a major difference in the final product. In
short, I don’t
have any salted butter in my fridge.
Don’t be afraid of butter. Like a lot of ingredients it’s
overused and if you keep the balance with the other ingredients in your
recipes, it’ll be just great.
1 tsp. unsalted butter = 36 calories, 4g fat, 2.5g sat fat, 1g mono
fat, 0g protein, 0g carbohydrates, 0mg sodium, 11mg cholesterol